Thursday, July 16, 2009

Stavanger Area Part II

Old Glory comes through again!

It seemed like only minutes had passed after we bid farewell to Swallow that our newest crew member arrived. John had jumped on a shuttle plane from Oslo instead of the overnight train and arrived Tuesday just as the evening flag ceremony was in progress. He said the flag had guided his last few steps toward Windleblo. After stowing his gear, we used the remaining daylight to show him around Stavanger.

The new crew halfway complete (Emily arrives Sunday), we set out early Wednesday heading north. Our route took us past Kvitsoy and through a narrowing fjord toward Haugesund. A thundery downpour overtook us abreast of Kvitsoy. On its heels, the wind shifted as we altered course, staying behind us. We sailed wing-on-wing in 10 to 15 knots all day. Around mid-afternoon, we steered into a cozy anchorage just south of Haugesund.

Our shore leave took us onto the tiny, undeveloped island of Dragoya where we discovered a profusion of wild blueberries. A hour later, we had collected plenty for Jocelyn's next baking project.

As Dragoya offered no good trails, we dinghied across to the larger island of Fosen for a walk. Jocelyn needed eggs for baking, so we kept a lookout for a store. After walking quite a ways through a very rural area, we finally came upon a man outside his house. We asked if a store could be found nearby. He replied, "I'm sorry, no. The closest store is eight minutes away by car. But you are welcome to use one of my cars to go there if you wish." We politely declined. The gentleman then joined us as we walked. He bantered on about a range of topics -- his pet pig, inane Norwegian summer residency rules, and the 18-minute commute to his Haugesund office. We listened attentively. After a bit, he announced we had reached the turnoff for his neighbor's house. We bid adieu. Astounded by his instant comraderie, we couldn't help but wonder whether an American would ever offer a Norwegian stranger use of his car to run to the store.

Soon thereafter, John found a signpost to play "flag" on. (See photo.)

Dinner was salad and a delicious pork chop and pasta creation. We soon retired as an early call awaited to make the most of the remaining southerlies. We are now about halfway to Bergen.

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