Fourth of July Weekend

Friday morning we were busy in Kristiansand. Our first stop was at a marine service center to ask about the "First Service Inspection" for our diesel engine. Skip it, and you risk voiding your warranty. The maintenance chief here said they were booked for a full month, as were all the other shops within a reasonable distance. Only one seemed willing to fit us in, so our itinerary was decided: We were heading to Lindesnes for the weekend.

We stopped by the Telenor store for help deciphering our 3G USB modem because the instructions that came with the modem were in Norwegian, of course, and we could make no sense of them. The staff spoke English and quickly helped us understand the basics, like how to top off our Internet SIM card and how to check our balance online. I'm now doubly certain that, at least for this summer, the Internet is indispensable. Back in Frederikstad, I went to several marine stores and asked everyone I found how they get their weather information. All cited websites. Until we can master Single Side Band radio weatherfax and email reception, it's the Internet or nothing. The only disappointment with the 3G USB modem is that the cell phone network Internet speeds are not sufficient to support Skype, so we have no cheap phone connection.

Next, I found distilled water to top off my battery banks. Our final stop was for groceries at a MegaCoop, the same grocery chain we shopped in Gothenburg, far better than the ICA grocery store across town.

We finally cast off at 1600 hours. We again headed into WSW wind but it was light, less than 10 knots. By 2000 hours we were rounding today's final point west of Mandal. We decided to unfurl the sails and tack the rest of the way. We found a protected island cove just outside Hollen, a few miles east of Lindesnes and even closer to the Volvo Penta service center.

We knew we'd be there all weekend, so we set our anchor carefully. Jocelyn took the helm and I worked the windlass. The cove was pretty small, so we didn't have all the swing room in the world. When the anchor seemed good and set, I signaled Jocelyn to increase the throttle to half to test the anchor. It held. We both took transits by lining up two objects on shore, one close and one farther away, and watched these for awhile to make sure we weren't dragging. Just to be safe, I decided I would turn our handheld GPS unit's "Anchor Drag" alarm on.

Evening shadows were lengthening as the wind died. We watched two regal white swans glide to the quietest end of the cove to enjoy the sunset with us. The coast had changed considerably between Kristiansand and our cove. Rocky islands sprang from the sea, with tops one to two hundred feet above the water. The more rugged landscape portended even greater change around the cape.

Lindesnes is the southernmost point in Norway. According to our cruising guides, the sea around Lindesnes is not to be trifled with. Lomax writes, "Although only 40 meters high, Lindesnes is steep and has a ferocious reputation. It is subject to severe weather which can change suddenly, and must be taken seriously.... In strong W weather, it is wise to keep 2M off Lindesnes, outside the impressive seas which can build up over Neskletten, a comparatively shallow reef 1M S of the point."

Our revised plan is to round Lindesnes midday Monday after our First Service Inspection. We should have fairly light wind from the WNW, so one big tack should do it. We'll then put in at Farsund and wait out a rainstorm forecast for Tuesday.

For now, we have a glorious Fourth of July weekend to enjoy. One by one, our little cove filled up, mostly with Norwegian weekenders; we were the only ones flying Old Glory. Their boats varied, but most typical were small tugboat-type motorboats with canoe sterns. Some were polished wood beauties. A particularly classic one took a spot right next to us. Invariably, these boats would pull up to a steep lee shore, attach a bowline, and throw out a stern anchor to keep their bows pointed in to the rocks. Not one of them anchored out. Jocelyn and I decided we would have to try the technique soon.

The weather was perfect. All the Scandinavians were again sunning on the rocks. None of them appear the least bit sunburned yet they spend all day in the sun. It's as if they were soaking it in now to store it up for winter when the sun comes out only a couple of hours a day.

To be sure we knew where the marina was, I launched the dinghy while Jocelyn stayed with the boat and monitored our anchoring. We were pretty confident but the wind was coming up, and we didn't want to leave our baby unattended. I took the handheld VHF radio set to channel 77 where I could monitor any distress call. After exploring a couple of coves and sounds and working my way through a maze of islands, and consulting a half-baked map provided by the Kristiansand Volvo service center, I eventually found a developed area, tied up the dinghy and asked for directions. As luck would have it the service center I was looking for was two doors down. Inside I found Belinda, a kind-hearted soul who directed me to Jan out on the docks who said I should come back Monday morning and he would see what he could do.

On the way back to the dinghy, I strolled around the parking lot where a fair-sized collection mostly American, mostly mint, vintage cars was displayed. I noticed only one Volvo in the lot. There were at least six Mustang convertibles from the '60's, several old Caddies, a 1938 Olds, and a vintage Camaro. American flags were flying but the show had nothing to do with the Fourth of July. It was part of the one-year anniversary celebration of the opening of a channel between the marina and a fjord.

Back in the boat later that afternoon, I decided to catch dinner. I rigged the fishing tackle recommended in the Norwegian Cruising Guide and followed the exact instructions: Jinking a Svenske Pilks lure attached to a 150 kg test line a meter or two above the bottom. I got two bites, so no entree. Cheese and tomatoes tasted fine.