After our propane refill excursion, we cast off of Jan-Erich's dock around Noon bound for Finnoya, a small island on the outside route to Trondheim. Jan-Erich had mentioned that they had an indoor swimming pool there. The e-book said they had free bicycles there as well. It sounded like a fun place.

The wind was cooperating nicely, so we set sail on a broad reach for the 30-mile voyage. We arrived around 5 p.m. and took a berth at the guesthavn. Sure enough, there were bicycles at the ready next to the guesthouse. The island grocery store supplies them to encourage cruisers to patronize their shop three kilometers away.

We dutifully pedaled to the store. It felt good to ride a bike again. We paused at a park along the way for a football (soccer) scrimmage. John has become quite the player while in Argentina, and he easily outmaneuvered the rest of us.

Once back at the boat, we grabbed our swimsuits and headed off to the swimming pool in the island recreation center, a spotless, modern building at the water's edge. Jocelyn didn't hesitate swimming in the 90 degree water! We soaked in the jacuzzi, took in the steam room and sauna, and just relaxed for a couple of hours. It seemed surreal to be in the five-star-style facility out on the edge of the world. No one complained.

Later, as Jocelyn prepared chicken korma, some neighbors came knocking. After greetings were exchanged, they dropped off two kilos of crab claws they had just cooked. We were floored! It took a little doing to crack and clean the claws, but well worth it. Yum!

We left Finnoya late the next morning in a light headwind, motoring northeast toward Trondheim. Around 5 p.m., we tried to set our anchor in a cove near Kristiansund. Seeing we were having difficulty, a small boat came out to offer us a mooring. We gratefully accepted.

We motored on the next day 30 miles to a pleasant anchorage on the large island of Smola. After a walk on shore, we ate a dinner of schnitzel, ratatouille, and potato, and crashed.