Lastovo

From Vis to Lastovo, we enjoyed the proverbial "sleigh ride" -- a 40-nautical-mile downwind leg in 25-knot winds and moderate seas. Windleblo surged at the reins with every slide down a wave front. The knot meter at center right reads 8.5 knots, top speed for us! It was a suitable entry toward another land that time forgot.










"The town that turns its back to the sea." That's how the guide books describe Lastovo town. We pedaled seven kilometers there from Skrivena Luka, the natural harbor on the island's southeast corner, where we had had a good night's sleep tied up to a dock in strong winds.








Like Vis, Lastovo island was off limits to foreigners for the longest time, only accessible in the last decade of the 20th century. Consequently, very little tourist development has occurred here, and one can take in the island in its unspoiled state.





A castle up on a conical hill overlooks the village of Lastovo, which is in the form of an amphitheater facing the center of the island, not the Adriatic. Narrow stone-paved streets, alleyways, and flights of steps wind their was between the old houses. Many of the houses are inaccessible by vehicle. The village has two fine churches, built in 1474 and 1512.











We read signs about the local "fumari," or chimneys, apparently peculiar to this island, that are kind of like a coat of arms for their owners. Each chimney is designed specifically for the wind patterns around that particular dwelling, and each family takes great pride in fashioning their fumari just so. Some seemed to take greater care keeping their ancient chimneys in better repair than their roofs!












Leaving Lastovo was hard as this was our last "new" island. Our next stop would be in familiar waters around Mljet.