We spent four nights in the Wasahamnar Marina in central Stockholm, just steps away from the incomparable Wasa Museum, one of Europe’s most popular tourist attractions. Though in Finland everyone recommended the Wasahamnar Marina as the “place to stay” while in Stockholm, I saw no redeemable attributes to the marina itself except for its location right in the center of town. The marina facilities were passable at best.

We didn’t spend much time at the marina, of course, except for sleep. Our excursions took us all over central Stockholm, mostly on our soon-to-be-named Brompton bicycles. (Have you submitted your bike naming contest entry yet?) And that brings me to my first observation.

The bicycle transportation system in central Stockholm is incomparable! Everywhere there are dedicated bike lanes, paths, or thoroughfares. Bikes enjoy more right-of-way than cars in many cases. And all bike lanes/paths are clearly marked with white bicycle symbols painted on the pavement to keep pedestrians from straying off adjacent sidewalks. Bicycling seemed by far the superior way to get around town. I found myself enviously wishing for a similar system in Denver, but alas, even Denver’s bicycle transportation system, which is better than most U. S. cities, can’t hold a candle to Stockholm’s.

Our bicycle trekking took us far and wide, starting with a preview of the Gota Canal by viewing a lock on the Hammarbyleden waterway south of central Stockholm to see how it worked. On the way, we parked the bikes and toured crowded Gamla Stan, or old town, on foot, which in the 17th century was the entirety of Stockholm at 11,000 people while Paris and London had more than 200,000. We pedaled through the area northeast and north of downtown, taking breaks in the many lovely green parks to observe natives in their habitat or pausing at a sidewalk café for refreshment. The weather was perfect, by the way – puffy cumulus clouds floating through blue skies with temperatures in the upper 70’s with just a touch of summer humidity.

On Friday, we visited the Wasa Museum. The experience was just as anticipated – incredible.

The Wasa is a warship commissioned by Swedish King Gustav II Adolf in 1625 to enter his war against Poland. It took three years and more than three hundred men to build the ship. On the 10th of August, 1628, the Wasa commenced her maiden voyage but heeled over and sank in the middle of Stockholm harbor after sailing a meer 1300 meters. It sat underwater for 333 years until it was raised and salvaged in 1961 on order of Swedish royalty. Pioneering restoration work ensued, and the vessel now sits in an exquisite structure as a museum open to the public. Our time at the museum offered insight into the country at the time of the Wasa ship – presenting a land constantly at war, but also with great ambitions.

On Saturday, we completed our sixth and final crew change. We took a 45-minute bus ride out of town to Stockholm’s Arlanda airport where John left us to return to his post at the Tufts European Center in the French Alps, and Leon & Lydia, our Boston friends, arrived to join us for our voyage through the Gota Canal. Leg Six of this season’s adventure was about to begin.