Cap’n Jack asked me to report on one of the most delightful aspects of cruising eastern Scandinavia, a request I hurriedly agreed to.

At every staffed harbor we’ve visited and even at a few less-secluded anchorages we’ve discovered a local bastu, or sauna. After a few experiences we’ve come to learn more about this incredible Finnish and, to a lesser extent, Swedish institution. What follows is a combination of personal experience, local knowledge gleaned and outside research.

Sauna is an ancient tradition for the Finns, one that comes with old customs and connotations. In a country of five million people there are two million saunas - about one per household. The etiquette of sauna-going is complex and subtle, but it is a faux pas to wear clothes in. This can be strange for some foreigners, but not the Hoopes men; we had no trouble. I’ve read that a more recent reason why clothes are not allowed in saunas at public swimming pools is that the chlorine from the pool water can vaporize, possibly causing respiratory problems for those inside. Overall, the sauna is a place for cleansing, relaxation and to share deeper conversation. We did our best to learn the etiquette. The #1 rule: CLOSE THE DOOR BEHIND YOU!

The customs of saunas at the harbor were unique. When we pull up to a typical harbor, we scramble ashore and ask the harbormaster what the rules are with the sauna. We usually sign up for an hour, either in the morning or in the evening, during which we can indicate whether or not guests are welcome. We’ve always opted for the private session, though some saunas do not have this option.

At each bastu, we arrive about five minutes after our scheduled start time (so as to not rush the group ahead, a violation of sauna etiquette), strip and enter. After a ten minute warmup period, we pour a bit of water onto the hot rocks and take a few slow breaths to complete the first stage of our sweat. All saunas have been within 25 meters of the water, so we then slip out of the heated room and down to the dock where we plunge into the cold, barely-salty Baltic.

We’ve encountered two types of saunas in our experiences, those heated with an electric unit and those heated with a wood stove. The thing in common is that both have a bed of rocks above the heating element. When water is poured on these scalding-hot rocks, it instantly boils and transfers much of the heat into the air, where it washes over the room and serves all inside a hearty dose of warmth. The highest we’ve seen the temperature go (some have thermometers inside) is a whopping 120 degrees – Celsius!

After our first plunge, we usually sit outside in the cool evening air and swill brew in preparation for Round 2. By now the sauna is nice and hot and the rocks have had time to restore their heat after the initial cold shock, so this round is pretty heavy from the onset.

After about fifteen minutes of intense sweating and sparse conversation, both of us have had enough and calmly head down to the waters edge for another icey swim. This is what really makes the experience – feeling the intense swing in temperature and the immediate shut-off of the pores is a very cleansing experience. After about a minute in the water, the chill sets in and we head up to sip some more beer.

The few saunas we’ve visited that were not private have proven to be the most interesting, resulting in some unique conversations with the Finns inside. A sauna is a meditative experience, so conversation is slow to begin, but once it does, some very interesting thoughts are shared.

We spoke to one man who told us some of the history of the sauna, that in generations past (before the rise of public health care) it was customary for childbirth to occur in the sauna, the cleanest place in the house (his own father was born in a sauna). He also told that most Finns have a sauna in their home, even the younger generations (each flat in an apartment complex will be fitted with one!). Finns are quiet people – the sauna is a place where deep, meaningful conversation can be had and even official meetings conducted.

The third and final round begins after another short break on a bench outside the sauna. This one is usually a bit longer and more evenly-paced than the second, since it is the last. It is important to vacate the area before the next people arrive, so they don’t rush you and you don’t trouble them. After one final plunge it’s time to head back to the Windleblo for dinner and more pilsener.

Dad tells a story about a grizzled Finnish sailor he encountered in a sauna in Mariehamn. After three days of sitting in the sauna listening but not understanding their Finnish conversation, he finally found a way to be included in the conversation being held (they switched to English - most Finns are bilingual). He complimented the Finns on their beautiful cruising grounds, to which the veteran replied: “It took me two circumnavigations to realize that the best cruising in the world was right at home in Finland.”

I'd agree, and the prevelance of the bastu is a major bonus to the beautiful sailing we’ve done these past two weeks.