Several locks and intervening canal stretches later, we emerged onto Lake Vӓttern. We berthed alongside the quay at the canal marina in the town of Motala.

Lake Vӓttern stretches 70 miles north to south and 20 miles across. To pick up the canal again, we must cross due west to the town of Karlsborg. But instead of racing to the next lock, we decided to lollygag a bit to enjoy some big lake sailing and check out some of the area’s tourist attractions.

First, we spent a day touring Motala on foot and bicycle. We likened this city of 30,000 to Birmingham, England – lots of industrial areas and middle class residential streets filled with modest homes and apartment buildings. I bicycled to a municipal swimming pool on the edge of town where I swam laps, followed by sauna. (Alas, the 12 degree Celsius (55 Fahrenheit) lake water made swimming there prohibitive, even for me.) Perhaps the most impressive feature in Motala, however, was an active archaeological site along the canal where Viking artifacts had been discovered, including a 6,000-year-old dildo.

Day Two on Vӓttern: From Motala, we tacked ten miles south to the town of Vadstena, site of Vadstena Castle. The castle’s moat now serves as a yacht marina, and we berthed right under the castle towers.

On the tour, we learned that the castle was built by King Gustav Vasa in 1545 and was originally intended to shield Stockholm from possible attacks by the Danes and the Smålanders. However, the plans changed, and the castle was turned into a Renaissance palace for Duke Magnus, the King’s son. It was not fully completed until 1620.

We treated ourselves to dinner out at a fine restaurant on the narrow, cobblestoned streets of the medieval town.

The next morning – Sunday – we toured the Vadstena Abbey Church. Built in the 14th century, its construction followed very detailed instructions from St. Bridgit for building a church for a double monastery. The high church spire still dominates the town’s skyline, sheltering an impressive cathedral beneath.

We returned to Motala – and the free canal marina berth – Sunday afternoon for one more night. That evening, we reviewed the weather forecast and decided we had better head to Karlsborg the next day. The weather was expected to worsen on Tuesday and Wednesday, with rain and high winds. We couldn’t wait out the storm in Motala as we needed to be in Karlsborg Wednesday evening to join a “convoy” of boats for the next segment of the canal. This is because after August 20th, the locks are only opened on designated days and reservations are required to pass through.

The next day – Monday – dawned bright and clear with 15-knot southwesterlies and puffy cumulous clouds scudding across a blue sky. Shortly after rising, Leon advised that he and Lydia had “had enough” of the boat and wanted off. They resolved to stay aboard until Karlsborg where they would catch a bus back to Stockholm Wednesday morning.

The sail across the lake was glorious, though unpleasant for Leon who reiterated his wish to disembark ASAP. Once in Karlsborg, his mood improved and we enjoyed a final day with Lydia and him, touring the 19th century Karslborg fortress and playing a few rounds of Molkky. Wednesday morning he and Lydia boarded a bus headed for Stockholm.

At the time it felt awkward, but looking back I appreciate Leon’s candor. His announcement was an object lesson for future Windleblo crew. Anyone who comes on board should understand it is not your normal vacation. In fact, it should not be viewed as a vacation at all. It is more an opportunity to join a working crew on a sailing vessel and experience the unique lifestyle and group dynamic aboard ship. As with most things in life, attitude is everything and there is no room for negativity or depression in the close quarters on board. And even if you begin with a good attitude, it’s OK to bow out if after a bit it gets to be too much. Better to say so and end your time aboard than stay and infect the rest of the crew with your unhappiness.

With our final crew change complete, it was now just the two of us.