The winds finally calmed below 30 knots, so we pushed out of Hallberg-Rassy harbor for one more reprise tour. No, we didn't head for Goteborg -- the seas were too rough for that -- but after a jaunt to Lysekil and back behind protected islands we turned the boat east, following narrow passages between Orust and the mainland. Two and a half hours of 15- to 20-knot wing-on-wing running later, we arrived in Uddevalla, our weekend getaway.

As we learned in the town's museum, Uddevalla, now a town of 30,000, got its city rights in 1498 but was probably a trading center long before that. It's appropriate that we end our Scandinavian visit here because historically Uddevalla was part of Norway. Because of its location close to Sweden and Denmark, it was often besieged. In 1612 and again in 1644 it was burnt by Swedish troops. In 1658, it was ceded to Sweden. A year later the Norwegians retook it, but in 1660 it was once again ceded to Sweden in the peace treaty of Copenhagen. Norway later repeatedly reconquered Uddevalla, the last time in 1788. As if two fires weren't enough, the entire city, four houses spared, burnt to the ground again in 1806, and 4,000 people were made homeless! The museum exhibits included extensive treatment of the area's rich seafaring history, reminding us that the Hallberg-Rassy craftsmen come from generations of boat builders.

After our museum visit, we took a walking tour of the town, intending to view one of the town's main attractions, the world's largest fossilized shell deposit (12 feet thick). We didn't make it all the way to the fossils, but enjoyed a lovely expedition along the river none-the-less visiting a 19th century castle fashioned after those in the German Rhineland.

Tomorrow, we plan to sail west to Batvardsvet, the Yard where Windleblo will hibernate for the winter. Our deadline is Tuesday night at the airport hotel to be in position for a 7:40 a.m. flight home Wednesday morning.