It started as a BTDT. You can't go to Norway without visiting Oslo, right? Everyone told us after where we've been -- the beautiful fjords of Norway's West Coast -- Oslo would be anticlimactic. But all of Norway is beautiful, and Oslo did not disappoint.

Monday, we drove our boat from Nevlunghavn in record time. Another fine broad reach east and then north, with the wind bending to stay on our aft quarter the whole way. Wind speed built from 15 to 20 knots as the day wore on, and our boat speed knot meter showed a max of 11.1 knots at the end of the journey -- the fastest Windleblo has ever gone!

We tied up in Moss, a drab industrial town a train ride south of Oslo. We'd landed just in time -- the wind picked up to 30 knots shortly thereafter. Another boat pulled in right after us, a brand new SIMA Faurby 396 fresh from the Oslo boat show held over the weekend. The SIMA was extra fancy with a carbon fiber mast and sleek lines. The Danish dealer brought the boat up from Denmark for the show and needed to be back on Tuesday, but the strong southerlies suggested otherwise. Wisely, he waited and was gone in the morning.

As were we, but to a different destination. We boarded a commuter train -- the Moss rail station was less that 100 meters from our mooring -- and 45 fast minutes later were in Oslo Sentrum.

The excursion started with a visit to the Telenor store. After more wrangling, I'm afraid to say we are still no closer to an unlocked modem. We got the same song today we heard Friday -- things are in the works, just be patient, wait for an email. We're beginning to think our earlier "too good to be true" sentiment was right after all. But we haven't given up hope just yet.

After a latte and some people watching, we toured the downtown streets on foot, taking in the Palace, the Opera House, the Oslo public library, the University, and the Parliament building. We browsed several shops along the way, researching upright basses, fabric, and collector books. We ended the tour with a delicious late lunch at an Indian restaurant (to-die-for) and a viewing of "Bruno" at the theater (Ugh!).

On the train ride home, we sat opposite yet another fascinating Brit. This time, it was a talkative ex-pat who told us his life's story during the 40-minute ride. He was a musician/author/real estate investor who had moved to Norway five years ago but was in the process of moving to Hungary. M.J. Bristow was his name, and he has two publications to his credit. Check one of them out at http://www.amazon.com/State-Songs-America-M-Bristow/dp/0313292981. (Curious that it took an Englishman to write this volume.)

We'll wait tomorrow for the wind to shift, then it's south to Sweden.