Korcula

The upwind sail to Luka Polace was enjoyable, but today reminded us of the virtues of being a downwind boat. The 15 miles to Korcula slipped under the keel easily as a broad reach became a wing-on-wing run in front of 15 knots out of the east. We tucked into the ACI Marina Korcula and Med-moored stern to by 2 p.m.

Just steps from the marina is the walled city of Kocula town, complete with a Romanesque-Gothic cathedral at the town's center and a labyrinth of narrow, pedestrian-only streets arranged in a herringbone pattern to allow the free circulation of air while protecting against strong winds. Today, this design was tested as the winds blew to 30 knots and rain intermittently pummeled the town, the first substantial rainstorm we have experienced since coming to this country three weeks ago.

A cruise ship hovered nearby, ferrying its cargo back and forth to the town. American English emitted regularly from the tourists wandering the town's streets. Despite this, the town seemed only partly activated, not quite fully geared up for the season. I paid the 20 kuna fee and climbed to the top of town's tallest bell tower to take photos. Afterwards, we paused for cappuccino during a lull in the wind and rain.



Retreating to the boat, we battened down the hatches as night gathered and the wind howled through the shrouds. We were grateful to be tied to a dock.