Backroads Wannabes

Today's mission: Pretend we are on a Backroads.com bicycle tour across Korcula, minus the sag wagon.

As mentioned earlier, John Hoopes spent last summer here as a Trip Leader for Backroads.com. He escorted many a high roller on fantastic bike tours throughout the Dalmatian Coast. As he left the boat in Cavtat earlier this month, we asked him for guidance on cool bike tours in these islands.

He soon sent us an email with  instructions. From Korcula town, he said, "there's a lovely short out-and-back to Racisce, which is pretty flat and along beautiful water. If you want a big ride, go up to Pupnat -- long uphill."

Taking his advice, we left Racisce at the crack of Noon pedaling towards Korcula town. The road hugged the coast, with occasional mellow climbs when cutting across the neck of small peninsulas. As advertised, the scenery was fantastic.

Feeling frisky, we kept going past Korcula town and began the climb to Pupnat, a small village nestled between hills near the top of the island. A wide highway without much traffic led us there. From Pupnat, one can hike the last 500 feet up to the highest point on the island at 1,864 feet.


Agriculture and tourism are what keeps this town going. No tourists could be seen in the village center, a sleepy spot bounded by a church and a grocery store. But agriculture was much in evidence throughout the area.

Yes, there were fields of crops scattered around.  But most remarkable were the smaller gardens that seemed to fill the yards of every residence.


And Pupnat wasn't unique in this respect. Wherever we have been in this country, in towns large and small,  almost every home has extensive gardens with healthy looking crops growing. We are inspired by this example to make better use of our property in Applewood as a bit of agriburbia.



It had taken us three hours to climb from Racisce to Pupnat. The descent took 20 minutes, despite stops to take in the fantastic views.

Back on the boat, we emailed thanks to John for steering us in the right direction.