Respite

For the past four days, we've enjoyed a marvelous respite hosted by Chris and Ann Adams at the Bay House, their retreat home in Ford, Scotland. We left Windleblo tied to a dock not far away at Ardfern Marina where Chris keeps his Hallberg-Rassy 342. While Windleblo rested, we enjoyed leisurely days sleeping in, eating well, and taking restorative walks in the glens and hills around the area.

Some highlights:

On the way from Tobermory to Ardfern, we anchored Windleblo for a night at Puilladobhrain on the island of Seil. While there, we went ashore for a brief walk to the pub at Tigh an Truish. Here stands an old inn where islanders changed from their trousers into forbidden kilts during the Jacobite uprising in 1745. In 1791, an impressive bridge was built here. Dubbed "the Bridge over the Atlantic," the arch spans Clachan Sound. Locals somewhat wistfully consider the sound as the first stretch of the Atlantic Ocean which extends uninterrupted beyond the Seil Island all the way to America in the west. Hence, the bridge's moniker.

Yesterday, we ventured 40 miles south by car to Tarbert for lunch. Similar to the Tarbert in the Outer Hebrides, this is a place where a narrow strip of land separates two bodies of water. According to Norse sagas, King Magnus Barelegs, while trying to re-establish control over parts of western Scotland, reached an agreement with King Malcolm of Scotland that Magnus could have all the islands off the west coast of Scotland around which he could sail his boat.

Determined to have the Kintyre Peninsula as well, King Magnus had his warriors drag a Viking longboat across the narrow isthmus at the northern end of the peninsula between Tarbert's East Loch Fyne and West Loch Fyne. ‘The king himself sat down in the poop and took hold of the helm-ball and thus he got possession of all the coasts lying on the larboard side,’ so the story goes. According to the Magnus Saga, the Kintyre peninsula had become an island!

The same feat was repeated by King Robert the Bruce in the 14th Century, whose castle remains can be seen at Tarbert overlooking Loch Fyne. Historians say it is indeed likely that it was fairly common for small boats to be dragged across the isthmus to save the long and dangerous voyage around the Mull of Kintyre.

To round out our history lessons for the day, we walked to the Tarbert ferry landing at the edge of town to witness the arrival of the steam ship Waverly, the last seagoing passenger carrying paddle steamer in the world. Built in 1946, she sailed from Craigendoran on the Firth of Clyde to Arrochar on Loch Long until 1973. Purchased by the Paddle Steamer Preservation Society, she has been restored to her 1947 appearance and now operates passenger excursions around the British coast.

By far the grandest highlight of the week was the reunion of the Hoopes nuclear family. Today, Ann graciously drove us two hours to the Glasgow airport where we greeted John on his arrival in Scotland and, three hours later, sent Emily off for her return the Colorado. Though brief, the love and laughter of that time together will never be forgotten.

Our respite concludes today, as tomorrow we return to the boat to turn her south for the final approach to Ireland.