Sicily

Crossing from Sardinia, we experienced an extraordinary sunset at sea. As the sun set, the sea was dead calm, creating an infinite horizon where sea blended into sky. By morning, the winds picked up, but not too strong, pushing us into Trapani. We took a berth at Marina Levante,  a small marina with good facilities and not too pricey.

Over the next three weeks, we explored Sicily both by land and by sea, exploring Trapani, Erice, Favignana, Marsala, Caltabelotta, Sciacca, Corleone, Palermo, and Agrigento.

Each crossing always starts with a dram for Neptune, which tradition has it provides good luck for the passage.

Sea and sky blended at sunset mid-passage between Sardinia and Sicily.

Once ashore in Trapani, we explored the streets.

And walked along the shore.

We took in the architecture.

And stopped for a cappuccino.

And shopped for fish. 

A gondola at the edge of town took us high on a mountain to the town of Erice. The view down to Trapani was impressive.

We strolled ancient streets of Erice.

Browsed through shops.

And toured some churches.

Leaving Trapani, we sailed 10 miles to the small island of Favignana off the west tip of Sicily. The town is best known as a place where tuna were caught and canned. Annual migrations brought the fish along the shores of Favignana where they were corralled and harvested, creating a way of life for generations. Alas, the migrations have ended, a victim of over-fishing. All that remains is the tuna processing plant, now operated as a museum and the island’s chief tourist attraction.

Favignana Tuna Can

Our next stop, after another short sail, was the town of Marsala, world renowned as the source of Marsala wine.  We toured the winery and sampled the product.

After Marsala, it was on to Sciacca. We thoroughly enjoyed this town, which is known for its therapeutic waters and healing spas.

We rented a scooter and rode it 20 miles uphill to the town of Caltabelotta. There we enjoyed the finest meal of our entire time in Italy, a traditional Sicilian meal at a restaurant called Mates.

Our chariot.

The town.

Antipasta

First course.

Second course.

Dessert. Cannoli’s of course.

After Sciacca, it was time to pick up our friends John and Moya at the Palermo airport. We moved the boat further down the southern coast of Sicily to a marina near Agrigento where we rented a car.

Our route took us through Agrigento. They were having a garbage strike. Quite fragrant in the summer heat.

We drove north through the interior of Italy. The scenery was spectacular.

We stopped for coffee in the town of Corleone, of Godfather fame.


It was here, in the 1980’s, when the highest per capita murder rate in Sicily was recorded.

Back on the road, we made it to Palermo, where we took in a cathedral.

Then, we collected John and Moya at the airport.

Returning to the marina near Agrigento, we got some good sleep and toured the Valley of the Temples the next day. These are the easternmost temples built by the Greeks.

Our time in Sicily ended, we set sail for Malta, the last stop on our 2012 cruise.